08 January 2009, 4:04 am
The Subdistrict of Ban Khwao Sinarin, Amphur Khwao is located around 22 kilometers north from the provincial capital of Surin just off highway 214N. You need to be mindful as you are driving up the road or you might just miss the turn. Just as the road widens to four lanes look immediately to your right for the first turn and follow the blue and white signs which will guide you the final 3.5 kilometers to the shops areas.
Along a small winding road across from a small pond sits a building with a small OTOP sign dangling from it's roof overhang. Not too different from what you might expect from the thousands of small simple block and cement shop houses located along other similar non-descript rural roads going somewhere.
But it is here that a small family of three, consisting of husband Siri Munprasan, age 37 and wife Dasri, age 32 look after their three year old son and operate a small quaint jewelry shop selling beautifully handcrafted silver jewelry. Rings, necklaces, chains, pendants of many designs and shapes utilizing persian and American Indian tourquoise, onyx, turmeline, agate, topaz, rubies and many other precious and semi-precious gemstones, and of course necklaces made of strung silver beads on intricately designed silver chains.
The difference is in the quality of their worksmanship. This particular ethnic Khmer-Thai family has been in the silvermaking business continuously for the past 270 years. Now I know that you know that when folks generally speak of a family business they are talking about a one, two or three generation experience at the max. But not so in this case. I said they represent ten generations of tradition and expertise and these folks are telling the truth and that literally blows me away. Siri learned the business as an apprentice for his grandfather who passed the business and skills on through his son to his grandson as did Siri's ancestors so many generations before.
How might one describe the workmanship? Incredible. Delicate. Purposeful. Elegant, of the highest quality but certainly not gaudy. In general, the outward appearance of beads and silverware from Surin are similar to those produced elsewhere in other parts of Thailand and throughout Asia. The essential difference here is that in Surin the designs are much more diverse. In general, distinctive, ancient designs of Surin comprise thirteen traditional motifs, such as khai mangda, rawiang, rang hok poet, rang hok pid, khachon, mali, the three-tiered lotus, tang-o, rang taen, the three-tiered tako, sunflowers, and rang phueng.
Tools and items required in the silverware making process include 100-percent pure silver beads referred to by their Khmer name "prakuam", several sets of tweezers, pincers, and a supply of soldering flux, a table, and molds. Siri, seated at his rough wooden table and bench in front of us carefully demonstrated the process by taking out a simple bic lighter and turning on his small soldering torch which was attached to a small cylinder of gas. Various bowls strewn about the table held bits and bobs of silver scrap and a supply of tiny silver beads.
Making silver jewelry starts by melting down the silver from beads. This is afterwards poured into shallow molds to create thin, flat sheets and bars. These are fashioned into the desired design on a silver base using soldering flux. This stage is similar to making gold ornaments and requires a great deal of time and patience.
Once the silver item has been dipped in a small bowl of cool water it is polished to remove any remaining residues of soldering flux and any smoke deposits and then it is reheated and dipped in a solution of sulfuric acid for about an hour. After another, vigorous polishing, it is cleaned with soap then brushed to achieve an attractive, white luster.
We have been stopping by the shop every month of so to chat with these fine folks and we have been doing so for a little over two years whenever we have foreign visitors at TOLO. Visiting Thailand for whatever reason should also entail doing some necessary souvenir shopping. Afterall, all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. If I ever mention to my wife Phongsri that we are heading up that way I have to run to catch her as she bolts toward the car in anticipation. In fact we have now had nearly 370 such foreign visitors from 39 different countries since we opened the doors of the orphanage some 11 years ago this week. And the folks just keep on coming. And that means many future excursions will be planned for the Surin silver village much to the delight of my beloved bride of nearly 20 years.
Dakrungngern Silver and Handmade Beads is the name chosen for this particular venue. Mastercraftsman Siri fashions and makes the jewelry and his wife Dasri displays and sells the products to the customers. They use their own designs but gladly will design something according to your specifications. This particular shop has been open for 10 years now. Six other family members, all cousins, Siri informed me, are likewise engaged in making silver. This magnifcent craft is not taught in universities and institutes but passed on by tradition and by live hands-on experience from one generation to the next, guided by master craftsmen who happen also to be close family members who serve as their teachers. Handicraft-making, imbued by local wisdom in the villagers of Khwao Sinarin sub district in the northeastern province of Surin, has been passed down from generation to generation. Today, Khwao Sinarin is the most famous silvermaking village center in Surin province and in our estimation is is a well deserved distinction.
Items of silverware look singularly beautiful, particularly when reflected light highlights the carved, floral designs; intricate work that demonstrates the degree of delicate craftsmanship needed to make silver ornaments like necklaces, bracelets, belts, and earrings. Today, Surin is synonymous with silverware, a distinguishing symbol of this northeastern province.Villagers in Chok village in Khwao Sinarin sub district have passed down the tradition of making ancient silverware and beads first learned from their Khmer ancestors.
Key items and tools used in the silverware making process include 100-percent pure silver beads, sets of tweezers, pincers, and soldering flux as well as their own homecrafted carving knives which allow them to etch in their very own designs. Making silverware starts by melting down silver from beads, which is then poured into shallow molds to create thin, flat sheets and bars. These are then fashioned and shaped into the desired design on a silver base using soldering flux. This stage is similar to making gold ornaments and requires a great deal of time and patience. We watched as Siri produced a beautiful silver bracelet. My wife handed him one of her older pieces of jewelry and within a few minutes he had re-fashioned it into a much finer piece of jewelry.
Later, the silver item is polished to remove residues of soldering flux and any smoke deposits and then reheated and dipped in sulfuric acid for about an hour. After another, vigorous polishing, it is cleaned with soap then brushed to achieve an attractive, white luster.
Come by and visit Siri and Dasri and watch for yourself how the jewelry is crafted. The shop address is 121 Moo TeeSahm, Ban Chok Khwao Sinarin, Surin 32000 Thailand and the phone number is mobile 086-1455792. Their shop is open seven days a week from 7:30 a.m. until 6 p.m. If you fail to bring along sufficient cash, don't let that stop you from purchasing some of their fine wares. You can always use Mastercard, Visa or American Express for an additional 2 percent fee.
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