06 January 2009, 7:07 pm
On a visit yesterday morning to Taklang Elephant Study Center in Amphur Tatoom, Surin province I had the opportunity to talk with one of the mahouts whom I have greeted many times in the past. Mahouts ( the Thai word for elephant handlers) are often paired with their adoptive elephant for many years or even for a lifetime. Taklang is an ethnically Suei (or Kuay) Village and these gentle and industrious folks and their ancestors have been engaged in elephant catching rituals and campaigns for many generations. The elephant population of Thailand has dwindled dramatically over the past years due to encroachments on its habitat. Currently there are an estimated 3,000 elephants in the wild and an additional 2,000 domesticated elephants in protected and supervised environments such as Taklang. That's a far cry from the nearly 11,000 of these gentle giants who roamed about the jungles of Thailand just twenty years ago.
When I approached, Mr.Mai Salangam, aged 67, he was busily feeding sugarcane to his 25 year old elephant Mojae for whom he has been responsible since she was a tiny baby. Straddled beneath Mojae was her 16 day old baby calf named Tanwa (From the Thai word "Tanwakom" which corresponds to the Thai name for the month of December).
Tanwa who is Mojae's first offspring was born on December 22nd and is a darling and curious little guy. Gestation period for baby elephants is between 21 and 22 months. Within a few weeks they reach a weight of 100 pounds. Elephants reach full maturity around the age of 18.
After a few minutes "Master" Tanwa wandered out from under his mother briefly to see what we were all about and there were some particularly nervous moments for his mother Mojae as she cautiously gathered him back under her bulk to protect him and nurse him once again. While we were there taking photos and conversing with Mr. Mai, a small scruffy dog came by and began barking at the baby elephant but momma Mojae intervened on her offspring's behalf and the dog ran off in terror as she approached. Baby elephants generally nurse until they are three years old.
In the adjacent coral was another 8 month old baby elephant named Songran (he was born in April) with his mother and just across the way there was another 1 year old. All three were males. At present there are 64 elephants who reside at the Center which provides free shows twice daily except for Mondays. These shows which include between seven and 11 elephants are a favorite for the many school children and foreign tourists alike who arrive by the bus and carload. Showtimes are 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. The show which includes hula hoop twirling, dancing elephants, who perform a lot of crowd pleasing tricks, such as sitting up and begging, balancing o two legs, doing contortions, demonstrating their prowess in shooting basketball hoops and playing football, t-shirt painting, dart throwing, walk-overs and body massages for willing audience participants is all extremely well worth seeing. I have actually been up to Taklang 35 times over the past 4 years and have never failed to enjoy the shows. I have even laid on a mat as part of the show on several occasions and have had elephants walk over me and even have had 2 massages.
I trust these gentle giants and know many of them by name. They say elephants never forget and I have spent a small fortune feeding these magnificent creatures and scruffing their ears in hopes they will remember my kindness, love and respect.
Thai elephants are often referred to as Tourism Ambassadors of Thailand. I recommend you pick up a copy of Sam Fang's colorful and illustrated book Thai Elephants (retails for 1,500 baht) at a nearby book dealer such as Asia Books or other store which handles English language texts for a delightful read about these magnificent creatures.
Mr. Mai said that Mojae had been employed as an elephant taxi previously on Koh Chang before being relocated to the center. Elephants are extremely well cared for here in Taklang which has been open to the public for the past five and a half years. A specialist veterinarian from Surin is on 24 hour beck and call to make sure that all the elephants are maintained in good health. Elephants can live as long as 80 or 90 years but no elephants are allowed to be used for any kind of work or participate in shows after they reach the age of 60.
Taklang Elephant Study Center receives some financial support from sponsors Chang Beer, Thai Airways and the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Since the Center's initial opening the facilities have improved drastically. Several new buildings which include a museum are open to the public which contain collection of photos and displays regarding round-ups of wild elephants, techniques and tools used in the traditional process of catching and training wild elephants The massive kraal which extends around the sprawling facility is quite impressive and is beautifully landscaped with tropical plants and sculpted and carved trees.
The twenty-five minute shows are followed by the oppportunity for a twenty minute elephant ride. The shows are free and stalks of bananas and bundles of sugarcane are on hand at a nominal price of 20 baht per bundle to provide visitors the opportunity to feed the giant pacaderms. Shopping areas located around the Center have lots of souvenirs on hand for your perusal, such as wood carvings of elephants, t-shirts, elephant hair rings, elephant bone and ivory jewelry bracelets, necklaces and other memorabilia.
Adult elephants such as Mojae consume between 150 and 180 kgs of food--- bananas, sugar cane and long grass per day. Come on out a see a great show, take a ride (it's only 100 baht for Thais, and a mere 200 baht for foreign guests--- far cheaper than at Chiengmai and elsewhere), visit the facilities, buy some souvenirs, and if you are impressed make a worthy donation to the Center to help feed and maintain these lovely creatures. You will, I am sure, enjoy your experience.
Don't forget your cameras. Ban Taklang can be reached by going north on Highway 214 from Surin to 9 kilometers north of Chompra. Follow the road signs to the Elephant Village. From Buriram Province take Highway 219 north to Sateuk and then at the main traffic light intersection turn right and proceed for approximately 23 kilometers (67 kilometers travel distance from Buriram).
For more details on elephant catching and the Suie people refer to our website here:
http://www.geocities.com/culturalcenter2001
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